The contrast between old-world and ultra-modern, characteristic of so much in Barcelona, also applies to the city's shopping scene. Since the 1980s mammoth malls have be making life hard for individual stores, but whatever you're looking for, Barcelona will spoil you for choice.
Malls
Barcelona Glories
Avda Diagonal 208, Eixample (93 486 04 04)
Metro Glories/7, 56, 60, 92 bus. Open Shops 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; closed most Sun.
This huge, drive-in mall with over 200 shops is located by the Placa de les Glories, near Els Encants. It's built around an open-air placa with bars, restaurants and a multiplex cinema. The northern European chain Hennes & Mauritz (H&M) has moved in recently and now competes with Zara for young fashion addicts.
El Triangle
C/Pelai 39, Rambla (93 318 01 08/http://www.triangle.es).Metro Catalunya/bus all routes to Placa Catalunya
Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; closed Sun. Credit MC, V.
Dominating one side of Placa Catalunya, the bunker-like Triangle, which opened in 1999, houses a Fnac, Habitat, and many small, trendy fashion shops including Camper for shoes, but its most spectacular store is the Sephora perfume mega-space. For the nostalgic, the Triangle has a version of the emblematic Cafe Zurich in one corner.
L'Illa
Avda Diagonal 545-557, Eixample (93 444 00 00/ http://www.lilla.com).Metro Maria Cristina/6, 7, 30, 33, 34, 66, 67, 68, 78 bus. Open 10am-9.30pm Mon-Sat
Supermarkets 9.30am-9.30pm Mon-Sat; closed most Sun.
Thanks to its prime location in the fashionable business area on the upper Diagonal, L'Illa attracts a more upmarket clientele than its counterparts on the city's fringes. It has trendier fashion shops (check out the groovy Prestige, 93 444 01 41), and a well-stocked Caprabo supermarket, as well as a Marks & Spencer, the Decathlon sports shop and a Fnac.
Maremagnum
Moll d'Espanya, Port Vell (93 225 81 00/ http://www.maremagnum.es).Metro Drassanes/14, 19, 36, 38, 40, 57, 59, 64, 157, N6, N9, N12 bus
Discounts BT. Open 11am-11pm daily.
A mall, or what? Maremagnum is intended as an all-round leisure complex, with restaurants, games, cinemas and nightclubs, and has pretty much succeeded. It's unique because of its Port setting, because it was designed by two of the leading architects of the new Barcelona, Viaplana and Pinon, and because you get to it via a bridge linking it with the Rambla. For those who find normal malls claustrophobic, it's a delight, and the giant mirror-wall above the main entrance creates spectacular visual effects. Its shops, though, are mostly better for fun and souvenir shopping than clothes-or-other-things-you-really-want buying.
Antiques
The streets around C/de la Palla, in the Barri Gotic, are crowded with small, idiosyncratic antique shops. Antiques are also found around C/Consell de Cent in the Eixample, and there are some less expensive shops around C/Dos de Maig near Els Encants flea market.
Bulevard dels Antiquaris
Passeig de Gracia 55, Eixample (93 215 44 99)
Metro Passeig de Gracia/7, 16, 17, 22, 24, 28 bus. Open Sept-May 9.30am-1.30pm, 4.30-8.30pm Mon-Sat; June-Sept Mon-Fri; closed Sun. No credit cards.p320 D4.
Beside the main Bulevard Rosa fashion mall, this arcade houses 73 shops selling antiques, from fine paintings to religious artefacts and dolls. In Turn of the Century, you'll find miniature musical instruments from the 1930s, and dolls' furniture; Trik-Trak are specialists in old tin toys.
Gothsland Galeria d'Art
C/Consell de Cent 331, Eixample (93 488 19 22)
Metro Passeig de Gracia/7, 16, 17, 22, 24, 28, 63, 67, 68 bus. Open 10am-1.30pm, 4.30-8.30pm Mon-Sat; closed Sun. No credit cards.p324 D4-5.
A near-unique specialist in original Catalan Modernista art, furniture and decoration. Delights include a spectacular selection of fine furniture (some pieces by Gaspar Homar), polychrome terracotta sculptures by Casanovas, Pau Gargallo or Lambert Escaler, alabaster by Cipriani, Modernista vases and mirrors, paintings, and even a marble sculpture by Frederic Mares. It also hosts exhibitions of painting and other work from the era.
L'Arca de l'Evia
C/Banys Nous 20, Raval (93 302 15 98)
Metro Liceu/14, 38, 59, 91 bus. Open 10.30am-2pm, 5-8pm Mon-Fri; 10.30am-2pm Sat; closed Sun. Credit MC, V.p327 B3.
The beautifully displayed antique cottons, linens and silks here are not cheap, but the patchwork eiderdowns, dresses and antique beaded bags are lovely to behold. Popular with brides looking for something special.
La Llar del Col.leccionisme
C/Llibreteria 13, Barri Gotic (93 268 32 59)
Metro Jaume I/17, 19, 40, 45 bus. Open 10am-1.30pm, 4.30-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-1.30pm Sat; closed Sun. No credit cards.p327 B3.
More bric-a-brac than antiques, the 'Home of Collecting' has lots of small items such as old postcards, posters, medals and watches. Owner Jesus Torriente seems to enjoy the company of visitors as much as doing business.
Crafts and gifts
2 Bis
C/Bisbe 2 bis, Barri Gotic (93 315 09 54)
Metro Jaume I/17, 19, 40, 45 bus. Open 10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; closed Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.p327 B3.
Quirky objects for everyone - toys for kids and adults, tin planes, life-sized Tintin characters, and lots of other items in wood, paper and papier mache.
Ceramica Villegas
C/Comptal 31, Barri Gotic (93 317 53 30) Metro Urquinaona/17, 19, 40, 45 bus. Open 10am-2pm, 4-8.30pm Mon-Sat; closed Sat pm
Closed July, Aug. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.p326 B2.
This worldwide distributor of ceramics has everything from one-off art pieces to popular rustic styles, plus antique water jugs and ceramic jewellery.
Germanes Garc'a
C/Banys Nous 15, Barri Gotic (93 318 66 46)
Metro Liceu/14, 38, 59, 91 bus. Open 4.30-7.30pm Mon; 9.30am-1.30pm, 4.30-7.30 Tue-Sat; closed Sun. Credit MC, V.
There's no name on the shopfront, but it's impossible to miss this wickerwork outlet from the baskets in the entrance. Inside, there are fruit baskets at 800ptas, laundry baskets for 3,500ptas, and screens or chests of drawers made in the workshop.
Kitsch
Placeta de Montcada 10, Born (93 319 57 68)
Metro Jaume I/17, 19, 40, 45 bus. Open 11am-3pm, 5-8pm Mon-Sat; noon-3pm Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V.p327 C3.
Guadalupe Bayona is a lawyer with a passion for papier mache. Most of her creations are inspired by Klimt, Botero, Dal' or Picasso, but she also recreates living personalities. La Roc'o, a life-sized lady in a flamenco dress who stands at the entrance, is the symbol of the shop.
Fashion Designers' Shops
Adolfo Dom'nguez
Passeig de Gracia 32, Eixample (93 487 41 70/ http://www.adolfodominguez.es).Metro Passeig de Gracia /7, 16, 17, 22, 24, 28 bus
Open 10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; closed Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.
Branches: Avda Diagonal 490, Gracia (93 416 17 16); Avda Pau Casals 5, Pau Casals (93 414 11 77); Passeig de Gracia 89, Eixample (93 215 13 39).
One of the foremost names in Spanish fashion, Galician Adolfo Dom'nguez deserves his reputation as a designer of well-made, timeless clothes for men and women, usually in stylishly austere colours.
Armand Basi
Passeig de Gracia 49, Eixample (93 215 14 21/ http://www.armandbasi.com).Metro Passeig de Gracia/7, 16, 17, 22, 24, 28 bus. Open 10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat
Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.
The pleasant flagship shop of this ultra-hip Spanish designer is suitably in the centre of things, and is the only place in town where you can find everything in his men's and women's collections, from soft leather jackets to more timeless suits, classic knitwear, evening dresses and a wide variety of accessories.
David Valls
C/Valencia 235, Eixample (93 487 12 85)
Metro Passeig de Gracia/7, 16, 17, 20, 43, 44, 63, 67, 68 bus. Open 10am-2pm, 5-8.30pm Mon-Fri; 10.30am-2pm, 5-8.30pm Sat; closed Sun. Closed 2wks Aug. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.
David Valls produces original upmarket knitwear for new bohemians, using the latest technology to create unique textures and fabrics. His shop has an extensive collection of body-hugging jumpers for women and stylish yet classic sweaters for men.
Gimenez y Zuazo
C/Elisabets 20, Raval (93 412 33 81)
Metro Catalunya/bus all routes to Placa Catalunya. Open 10.30am-2pm, 5-8.30pm Mon-Sat; closed Sun. Credit MC, V.
This duo won a national competition for young Spanish designers back in 1984. Fabric is the essential starting point of their garments: designs mix and play with different textures, using clean cuts and surprising, original details. In spring/summer 2001 unisex pieces will appear as a first step towards a collection for men.
Groc
Rambla Catalunya 100, Eixample (93 215 01 80)
Metro Diagonal/FGC Provenca/7, 16, 17, 20, 22, 24, 28, 43, 44 bus. Open 10am-2pm, 4.30pm-8.30pm Mon-Sat; closed Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.
Branch: C/Muntaner 385, Zona Alta (93 202 30 77, 93 202 00 01).
Groc is the place to find men's and women's clothing by one of the most admired of current Catalan designers, Toni Miro. His clothes are designed with a very distinctive flair, in irresistible materials. Shoes by Miro and jewellery by Chelo Sastre also feature in the range.
Jean-Pierre Bua
Avda Diagonal 469, Eixample (93 439 71 00)
Bus 6, 7, 15, 33, 34. Open 10am-2pm, 4.30-8.30pm Mon-Sat; closed Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.
The first, and for many years, the only Barcelona shop to sell avant-garde international designer fashion. Enjoy exclusive selections from Dries van Noten, Sybilla and personal friend Jean-Paul Gaultier: this is also the place to go for if you are looking for stylish and modern bridalwear. Luis and Adolfo make everyone welcome, and it's worth checking for special sales.
Josep Font
Passeig de Gracia 106, Eixample (93 415 65 50)
Metro Diagonal/22, 24, 28, 100, 101 bus. Open 10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; closed Sun. Credit AmEx, MC, V.
The Mediterranean influence in Josep Font's designs is evident as soon as you walk through the door of this attractive shop. Elaborated styles and an imaginative way of dealing with colours and textures create beautiful, extraordinary clothes.
Notenom
C/Pau Claris 159, Eixample (93 487 60 84)
Metro Passeig de Gracia/22, 24, 28, 39, 43, 44, 45 bus. Open 4.30-8.30pm Mon; 10.30am-2pm, 4.30-8.30pm Tue-Sat; closed Sun. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V.
Notenom ('It has no name') is a focal point for all the newest trends and lines, selected from around the world (labels such as Exte, Comme des Garcons, Maurizio Pecoraso and D2). The two-level store sells wear for both sexes and especially men can find daring pieces difficult to find anywhere else in town. There is also a selection of fashion jewellery and accessories.
